Indoor Installation

Step 1: Area is prepped by removing any debri and ensuring the base is level.

Step 2: A 3" Styro foam base is then added and contoured to the shape of the green
The Styro foam is specially bounded ensuring a tight fit

Step 3: Undulations are added if required using a special SG rubber granule mix.

Step 4: Holes are positioned and cut

Step 5: Holes are cut, prepared and dressed with appropriate flags. Project is now complete.

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Green Layout and Ground Preparation

Step 1: Determine the size and shape of your green as well as any chipping stations and/or sand traps.

Step 2: Measure the length and width you determined from Step 1 on the ground and using irrigation flags or stakes and landscape marking paint, outline the designed shape. Check for irrigation heads and be sure they are all capped off.

Step 3: Once the green is outlined you are ready to remove any existing sod. If your existing ground is not sod covered, skip to Step 4. Utilizing a sod cutter remove the sod from the staked green area plus an additional 1' to 1 1/2' around the perimeter. Set the depth of the sod cutter to between 2 and 3 inches.

Step 4: You now have the green area laid out and have removed any sod from the area plus an additional 1' outside. Rough grade the area using a landscape rake, then using a water hose and nozzle, lightly wet the area and then compact using either a 2 ton double drum roller or 19" plate compactor depending on the size of the green and equipment availability. Make 2 passes over the area to ensure sufficient compaction.

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Hole Installation

Step 1: Roll a small basketball or rubber ball on the green to determine the effects of the undulations you have installed. This will help in determining where to install the cups depending on the desired breaks you wish to create. Experiment by placing the cups on the base and rolling the ball to each location until you have the desired locations.

Step 2: Using post-hole diggers, dig out the holes for the cups in the previously determined locations. Dig far enough down to ensure the cup will be 1/2" higher than the surface of the base when installed. This is important because it will help you find the holes once the turf is laid on top of the base.

Step 3: Wrap the entire cup twice with wax paper or mylar seam tape and then tape the bottom of the cup with duct tape.

Step 4: Place the cup in the center of the hole you dug and place Kwik cement evenly around the cup all the way up to the surface of the base. Pour water over the cement until it soaks in. Place the pin for the hole or a 30" pole marker in the cup to keep it level and eye the cup from all angles to ensure it is straight.

Step 5: Using a hard bristled push broom, broom the entire surface of the base to ensure that there are no foot marks or dimples present.

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Step 1: Now that you have both pieces rolled out onto base, you will need to overlap the two edges that will be seamed together. Make sure the overlap is at least 3 inches. Now you will have part of one piece on top of the other and they will be referred to as top piece and bottom piece for this procedure.

Step 2: Using a flat screwdriver separate the face yarn on the top piece of turf along a line 1" in from the factory edge. Be sure to go in the direction of the grain. (To determine the grain of the turf run your hand along the turf in a direction perpendicular to the 12 foot edge, pressing down firmly. When you are against the grain the fibers of the turf will resist and when you are with the grain the fibers will lay down and feel smooth.) Perform the process of separating the face yarn two times.

Step 3: Using a cushion back cutter along the line created in previous step, cut the top piece of turf at an angle of 45 away from the turf. Make sure the pressure is only enough to cut just the top piece and not through to the bottom piece.

Step 4: Using the flat screwdriver separate the face yarn on the bottom piece by running it along the cut edge of the top piece. Using a cushion back cutter along the line created by the screwdriver, cut the bottom piece of turf at an angle of 45 away from the turf.

Step 5: Now that both pieces of turf have been cut, lay them next to each other and make sure that the seam is tight with good pressure applied.

Step 6: At either end of the seam continue in the direction of the seam off the end of the turf and draw a small line in the base. These lines will be used to set the seam tape in the proper alignment after the turf edges are rolled back.

Step 7: Seam together, utilizing SG's exclusive seaming methods. Specific instructions will be provided at time of purchase.

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Base Installation

Step 1: Remove the irrigation flags used in the layout of the green as you will be utilizing them again in this procedure.

Step 2: Base installation will involve two different types of base material. The first layer of base will be between 2 and 4 inches thick and consist of 1" to fines aggregate material. The second layer should not exceed 3 inches thick and will consist of screenings or other fine material, depending on what is available in your area. The base material is measured by the cubic yard and the following calculation is utilized to determine the quantity of material.

a) Area of green in square feet x depth of layer in feet (inch measurement 12) = cubic feet of material
b) Cubic feet 27 = Cubic yards of material
c) Round the final measurement up to calculate for any waste

Whether the material is delivered or you pick it up have it onsite when you are ready to begin the base installation.

Step 3: As you install the first layer of base you will incorporate the green undulations into this installation by adding thicker layers of base in certain areas to create breaks. To aid in this, install irrigation flags or stakes on each side of the green down the entire length. The flag/stake spacing should be about 3 to 5 feet apart and directly across the green from each other. You will also need a laser or site level and tripod set up at one end of the green or a 8-10 foot long 2"x4" with a level attached. A normal break is about a 2 to 3 inch fall between sections of the green and a more challenging break would be a 4 inch fall (example 6 inches down to 2 inches).

Step 4: Using a shovel and rake, place base material evenly over the green area. As you install the first layer of aggregate material, build up the green higher in areas per your design by adding more material and periodically check the elevations with your level until you have achieved the desired amount of fall in each portion of the green.

Step 5: When you have finished the first layer of base and are satisfied with the undulations you should have between 4 and 5 inches of material installed. You are now ready to compact this layer. Using the water hose and nozzle thoroughly wet the entire area but do not overly saturate it. Then begin compaction with the 2-ton double drum roller or 19" plate compactor. You should make even passes over the area and repeat 2 times to ensure sufficient compaction.

Step 6: After compacting the first layer recheck your undulations with the level and then rough the entire area with a landscape rake.

Step 7: Begin installing the screenings/fine material. Remember to maintain the contours you created with the first layer and evenly install the second layer at a uniform thickness. You should only need about 2 inches of material with a maximum of 3 inches.

Step 8: Using the back of the landscape rake gently smooth the surface of the base and wet thoroughly but not overly saturated. Compact with either the 2 ton double drum roller or 19" plate compactor with even passes over the base. Compact the entire green twice.

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Turf Installation

The turf comes in 4 metre widths. Any green that is wider than 4 metre's will have to be constructed of two 12 foot pieces of turf seamed together.

Before installing your turf, unroll it and lay it out flat on top of the base to let it relax from being rolled up. To unroll the turf, place the roll or rolls on one side of the green and gently roll turf out over the base. Do not drag the turf across the surface of the base. If possible you should leave it flat overnight at a minimum. If you do not have 2 pieces of turf to seam together move on to Final Shaping.

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Final Shaping

Step 1: With the turf laid out on the base draw a chalk line in the outline of the final desired shape of your green.

Step 2: With a cushion cutter carefully cut out the turf along the chalk line. Be sure to have replacement blades available for the knife.

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Cups and Holes

Step 1: Locate the holes underneath the turf and then find the center of the cup using your thumb. Cut a small X in the center using a sharp utility knife.

Step 2: Insert the knife into the X and carefully cut until you reach the edge of the cup. Gently hold the turf up at the X and cut tightly around the outside edge of the cup.

Step 3: Once the turf is removed over the cup, carefully remove the cup from the hole. You may need to use the handle end of a pair of pliers and a screwdriver to pry the cup loose before pulling it out if it does not come out on its own.

Step 4: Have a 5 gallon bucket nearby for garbage and remove the wax paper from the cups and discard the paper. Make sure the bottom of the hole does not have any concrete in it. Using a small amount of dirt from the bottom of the hole, rub it on the inside walls of the concreted hole.

Step 5: Reinstall the cup in the hole, ensuring the top of the cup is about 1/8" below the top of the turf. You may need to gently tap the cup into place with the handle of a hammer. Repeat for all of the cups.

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Artificial grass for golf and synthetic putting greens